If you’re wondering what makes a rodent, it’s the tooth structure and the prerequisite of being a mammal. Because of their unique tooth and jaw structure, as well as the growth rate of their teeth, rodents are considered “gnawers” of wood and other fibrous materials. Beavers are the more voracious gnawers of wood, but are rarely considered pestiferous. Gnawed trees and shrubs are often attributed to rabbits. People often mistake rabbits as a member of the rodent order of mammals. In fact, they’re not; rabbits are lagomorphs. I certainly didn’t know rabbits were some kind of alien hybrid set loose to ensure that our legume population couldn’t get out of control.
We’re going to give you the most direct and effective ways to get rid of rodents with links to separate articles that go into more detail about that particular rodent. A list of these rodent articles can be found in the sidebar to the left while some natural and humane rodent control strategies are found to the right. We will also talk a little bit about traps and trapping, but for now, let’s review the most common types.
Why control rodents?
We hardly need to list the reasons to get rid of mice and rats. They pass on sicknesses and worms to cats/dogs, and the fleas that are along for the ride usually have blood-borne pathogens. There is further evidence showing that domestic rodent pests are responsible for bringing the black-legged tick (otherwise known as the deer tick, the tick most often identified as the carrier of Lyme Disease) and other blood-feeding species of insects and arachnids.
Outdoor rodents (groundhogs, gophers, chipmunks, etc.) are hated less for the health reasons than with their damage causing habits. Nesting specifically causes issues, while burrowing rodentia cause problems in gardens and lawns. Thankfully they don’t pose too much threat to health, but they’re still a pain.
Most Common Rodent Pests
If you want to control mice or rats, perhaps the most effective form of pest control is the mouse trap or the rat trap. Some people will tell you it’s more humane (and it is) to use live traps, simply releasing the animals outside or relocating them a ways from your house. And that’s great if you have one or two field mice. Roof rats and house mice have become too accustomed to domestic life, so they will find their way back into your home. Not only that, but rats and house mice are often of such large populations that the reusability of lethal mouse traps and rat traps becomes more economical and far more efficient. Some folks have tried planting mint around their domicile, which helps keep the mice away. The Makerskit Herb Garden sold by Amazon will help with this method should you choose it.
If you want to control gophers, you’re looking at two possibilities: poison or gopher traps. Control of pocket gophers (what some people would call a “true gopher”) is most effective when employing either a trap set in the main runway of the gophers tunnel system, or by injecting strychnine-laced barley into the tunnel system. Trapping gophers provides the added security that you are not going to kill another animal in the process because the traps are set inside of the gopher mounds. Poisoning gophers with strychnine relieves you of the tedium that is cleaning, setting, and checking traps, but if a poisoned gopher wanders above ground before he/she dies, a predator may end up eating that gopher and dying from the poison as well.
Groundhogs are usually dealt with using fumigant gas cartridges that are injected into the burrow, releasing carbon monoxide or some other gas that kills the groundhog. People often mistake groundhogs for gophers; the difference between a groundhog burrow and a gopher burrow is that groundhogs burrows usually have an entrance radius of 10″ or greater, while the entrance to a gopher burrow is considerably smaller (3″-4″)—and gopher mounds a generally more numerous. These fumigants (usually either carbon monoxide or aluminum sulphide) can be used for both gophers and groundhogs. Just be certain to seal the mound system with moist soil and don’t use them under your home.
The focus on squirrel control leans a bit more towards the preventative rather than their direct physical destruction. Poisoning squirrels and similar rodents is a no-no because they have too many predators that you will end up killing secondarily. Most squirrel control efforts have focused on designing squirrels out of the system. Maintain your property and make sure any food (bird seed, pet food, nuts, etc.) is protected from squirrels. If they can’t forage, they won’t stay!
To get rid of chipmunks you’re going to come back to trapping. Sure, it seems like getting rid of chipmunks would be a lot like getting rid of squirrels, but the most effective forms of chipmunk control are with rat traps or mesh-wire live traps. Whichever kind of trap you use to control your chipmunk population depends upon the size of the chipmunk population. If you’re dealing with a lot of chipmunks that are burrowing under your home or chewing up your house, you may want to go for the rat trap immediately. Pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, nuts, and dried fruits are all good baits for chipmunks. If you’re worried you might catch something other than a chipmunk, try using live mesh-wire traps instead, using the same kinds of bait.
Best Tips for Trapping Rodents
Clean the traps. Once clean, only handle them when you’re wearing gloves (the kind that won’t accumulate smells form your oil/sweat). Groundhogs and gophers have great senses of smell, and will stay away (aka not get killed) if a trap smells too much of humans or strangeness.
Placement of rodent traps is key, as you may already know. Putting a gopher trap in the middle of your yard is going to accomplish nothing because gophers spend almost 100% of their time below ground in their tunnel systems eating roots and other vegetation. Know how the rodent moves/lives, that will give you an edge when you need to take it out with trap placement.
Check your traps on a regular basis to avoid having to handle rotting rodent corpses, and it will allow you to clear the trap for another catch—if you’re dealing with a large population. For gophers and groundhogs, checking the traps once every three or four days should be sufficient. For rats, mice, and chipmunks, check your traps once or twice a day. If you’re not catching anything, first try moving the trap to an area where there may be more rodent traffic. Otherwise, try using different bait.
Clean your traps before reusing them. This should be obvious, but I thought I’d mention it. Regular dish soap should be fine. Just make sure you get the blood and guts off the traps to prevent odors and corrosion from hindering the effectiveness of your traps. A little oil or WD-40 dabbed on joints will help ensure cleaner functioning and a clean kill.
Best Natural Rodent Control
Fencing and other physical obstacles are probably the most humane forms of rodent control that you can employ. Fencing made from 1″ to ½” wire mesh buried roughly two feet below the ground and about 2 feet above the ground will stop just about any pestiferous rodent or garden-feeders, including moles. Hardware cloth might also be fixed to the sides of porches and other areas where chipmunks , squirrels, and groundhogs might find their way under buildings, which are perfect places for rodents to nest.
Plastic tubing werapped around wires and cables will protect them from rodents that gnaw on them. The trick is to get about 3′ to 4′ of PVC pipe around the cable loose enough that when a squirrel or chipmunk attempts to cross over it, it spins and throws the offending rodent to the ground.
Sanitation and property maintenance will help ensure that food to eat and places for rodents to hide are kept to a minimum. Clearing brush, debris, hedges, and piles of rocks from property will help you keep rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks and groundhogs from making your yard into a hideout. While sealing birdfeed containers and pet food supplies in rubber tubs or automatic dispensing machines will help prevent pest rodents from getting a free meal.
Live traps from Havahart are always a good alternative to lethal rodent traps. Further trauma to the trapped animal can usually be avoided by placing a breathable fabric or cotton sheet over the trap while transporting the animal to its new home. Make sure that new home is in a habitat that will work for the rodent (read: not in the mouth of a cat or fox), and secondly be sure you give enough time for the rodent to make its way out on its own. Less traumatic for the poor little beastie. If you need to get a solid live trap, you can choose from a variety of them at Amazon.